Swede Dreams of Winter

3-Day Winter Culinary Itinerary

Winter in Southland isn’t just a season, it’s a mood. The snow-capped mountains, misty mornings, and golden tussock landscapes set the perfect backdrop for a road trip rich in flavour and warmth. Whether you're sipping moonshine in Māruawai Gore or dining on wild Fiordland venison by a crackling fire in Te Anau, Southland knows how to do winter well, especially when it comes to food.

This 3-day winter itinerary from Gore to Te Rua-o-te-moko Fiordland is all about hearty meals, iconic local ingredients, and the kind of soul-soothing hospitality that only the deep South can offer.

Day 1 - Gore

Gore - Southern Flavours and Heritage Stops

Morning

Kick off your morning in Gore with a hearty Southern breakfast. There are plenty of cafes to choose from that can serve you fresh, generous helpings of classic Kiwi favourites, think eggs just the way you like them, crispy bacon, and a strong, satisfying coffee. At The Stable Kitchen, set inside a beautifully restored historic post office, you can savour your drink surrounded by timeless charm. Over at Ambience Café, your flat white comes with A2 milk sourced straight from Henderson’s Farm, keeping things local, fresh, and sustainable. These spots are the perfect introduction to Southland’s legendary comfort food scene, and with cabinet selections so mouthwatering, you’ll have a hard time choosing just one treat.

After breakfast, head just around the corner to the Eastern Southland Gallery, affectionately known as the Goreggenheim. Housed in a stunning heritage building, it’s worth pausing at the entrance to take in the architecture before stepping inside. The gallery features the internationally renowned John Money Wing and Ralph Hotere Gallery, and you could easily spend a couple hours here exploring its beautifully curated collection.

Directly across the road, you’ll find the Hokonui Moonshine Museum, which dives into Gore’s fascinating -and cheeky- history of illicit whisky distilling. Through immersive displays, audio stories, vintage artefacts, and recreated prohibition-era scenes, the museum brings the moonshining days vividly to life. The Gore Visitor Centre shares the space and is a fantastic spot to chat with friendly locals and pick up regional tips. Finish your visit with a complimentary tasting of Hokonui Moonshine, a fiery local drop that’ll warm you from the inside out.

Afternoon

Take a short drive out to Croydon Aviation Heritage Centre in Mandeville. If you're feeling adventurous, hop aboard a scenic flight for breathtaking views of the snow-dusted Hokonui Hills, a truly unforgettable winter experience. Prefer to stay grounded? Settle in at the onsite Miss Cocoa Café for a hot drink and something sweet (their scones and slices are local favourites), then treat yourself to something from their tempting lunch menu. Be sure to browse the adjoining shop Collaborate, where you’ll find a lovely selection of locally made goods and gifts.

To refresh body and mind, take a brisk walk through Dolamore Park, Bannerman Park, Hamilton Park, or along the Mataura River. Even in winter, Southland’s parks and trails offer crisp air, quiet beauty, and a peaceful break from the road.

Evening

In the evening, take your pick between two local favourites. For an elevated dining experience, head to Thomas Green, where talented chefs craft seasonal dishes using farm-fresh, locally sourced ingredients. Or, if you're after something more rustic, Howl at the Moon serves up generous portions of hearty Southern classics. It’s the perfect place to dig into a tender Southland lamb shank, rich venison, or the beloved blue cod.

End your day with a stay at Croydon Lodge, just outside of town, where you’ll find classic rural charm, warm hospitality, and a restful night’s sleep.

Day 2 - Gore / Lumsden / Mossburn / Te Anau

From Farmland to Fiords

Morning

Say farewell to Gore and hit the road to Lumsden, just a 45-minute drive away, for a breakfast that’s well worth the journey. At Roasted x Toasted, they’ve truly mastered the art of the toastie. Sink your teeth into creations like the “Ha-le-loumi”, “The Spicy One”, or the crowd favourite, “Mother Clucker.” Pair it with a cup of their house-brewed ROARsome coffee, and you’ve got a breakfast that’ll fuel your day and then some.

Continue your journey towards Mossburn, dubbed the ‘venison capital of the world’, while soaking in the breathtaking Southland landscapes along the way. Stop along the route at The Dome or Brackenhall Cafe for some Southland classics, like gooey cheese rolls, piping hot pies straight from the oven or a custard square. These comforting treats are just what you need to warm the soul on a crisp winter’s day.

Afternoon

From here, you’re already more than halfway to Te Anau, and you’ll know it when the dramatic Fiordland mountains begin to rise on the horizon. Once you arrive in this lakeside gem, take a moment (or a whole hour) to soak in the breathtaking scenery that surrounds you.

Stretch your legs with a walk along the shore of Lake Te Anau, or choose from one of the many scenic trails in the area. Be sure to stop by Punanga Manu o Te Anau Te Anau Bird Sanctuary, nestled right on the lake’s edge, where you can spot some of Aotearoa’s rare and hard-to-find native birds.

When you’re ready to warm up, head to the cosy Fiordland Cinema and catch Ata Whenua -  Shadowland, a stunning visual journey through Fiordland’s remote wilderness that most never get to see. Cap off your visit with a glass of local wine or craft beer and some tapas from the adjoining Black Dog Bar.

Evening

After settling into Te Rua-o-te-moko Fiordland this afternoon, it’s time to head out and enjoy something truly special. The Fat Duck, awarded New Zealand’s Best Gastropub of 2025, serves up contemporary winter-friendly cuisine crafted from the freshest locally sourced ingredients. Each dish is designed to satisfy your tastebuds and comfort your soul on a chilly evening. Paired with their genuine Southern hospitality and cosy atmosphere, it’s the perfect place to unwind and enjoy a hearty, warming meal after a day in the crisp Fiordland air.

Settle in for the night at a cosy lodge or charming lakeside motel – the perfect winter retreat after a day of exploring. Many accommodations in Te Anau offer stunning lake views, crackling fireplaces, or even private outdoor hot tubs, where you can soak under the stars and feel the crisp night air on your cheeks.

In the winter months, you might be lucky enough to witness the magic of the Aurora Australis – the Southern Lights – dancing across the dark southern sky, adding a breathtaking final touch to your Fiordland evening.

Day 3 - Piopiotahi Milford Sound

A Journey Into the Wild

Morning

Before setting off on today’s adventures, grab breakfast at The Sandfly Café – a local’s favourite and known for great coffee, venison pies, cinnamon rolls, and a hot bowl of seafood chowder to keep you warm. These treats are sure to keep you going on the drive to Piopiotahi Milford Sound.

Winter transforms the world-famous Milford Road into a snow-dusted wonderland. Be sure to check road conditions, allow extra time for the drive and fill up your thermos. Don’t forget to stop along the way at beautiful scenic spots, like Mirror Lakes and Eglinton Valley.  

Afternoon

Visiting Piopiotahi Milford Sound during winter is an unforgettable experience only few get to enjoy. While the air is crisp and the temperatures cool, winter brings a peaceful stillness to the fiord that makes it all the more magical. With fewer visitors around, you’ll feel as though you have the entire place to yourself.

Snow-dusted peaks tower above the inky water, waterfalls tumble from sheer cliffs, and the only sounds you’ll hear are the calls of native birds and the gentle lapping of water. The chill in the air is easily forgotten as you breath in the fresh alpine air and watch the Fiordland mountain peaks glide past, towering silently on either side of the boat. With no sandflies to bother you, it’s the perfect time to soak in the serenity.

Evening

Go on an overnight cruise, and onboard, talented chefs will serve up hearty, soul-warming meals made with locally sourced ingredients. Whether it’s slow-cooked lamb, fresh Southland vegetables, or a decadent dessert, every dish is designed to comfort and delight. Wrap up warm on deck and watch the stars appear, one by one, in the dark, unpolluted sky.

Wake in the morning to mist rising off the water and the soft light of dawn creeping over the mountains, a winter wonderland that feels worlds away from everyday life.

If you’ve opted for a day cruise, consider extending your stay in Piopiotahi by spending the night in this remote alpine paradise. Rather than rushing back, treat yourself to a night at Milford Sound Lodge, a peaceful and stylish retreat tucked into the heart of Fiordland’s wilderness.

After a day on the water, warm up and wind down with a luxurious dining experience at Pio Pio Restaurant, the lodge’s on-site restaurant and one of Fiordland’s best-kept secrets. This cosy eatery serves up fresh, seasonal dishes made with locally sourced ingredients, think Southland lamb, native herbs, and crisp regional produce. Whether you're in the mood for a hearty winter stew or a delicate, flavourful creation, every plate is thoughtfully prepared to reflect the surrounding landscape and satisfy the soul.

Staying overnight in Milford Sound—whether on the water or tucked away on land—lets you experience the fiord at its quietest. Once the crowds have gone, a calm settles over the landscape, and you’ll hear little more than the distant rush of waterfalls, and the occasional kea call overhead.